Canada. A land of turquoise mountain rivers, maple syrup, and skiing. A perfect trio that cannot be found anywhere else in the world. Add in poutine, whiskey and their famous Canadian friendliness, and it's no wonder Canada is the dream destination for Brits ahead of the US and even the likes of Japan.
But what makes skiing in Canada so good? How do you choose between the countless ski areas? And, more importantly, how do you fit it all in between this choice and Canada's sheer scale?!
On the flip side, Canadian skiing is beginning to garner something of an unfavourable reputation. Between high lift ticket prices and more locals being squeeze out, especially at bigger resorts, is the experience still the same, and how can you find value in your Canadian adventure?
This is a rough guide to Canadian skiing. It will highlight the three major areas where you can ski in Canada, that I have divided into East, West, and the Middle, and also run through just why you should spend the time and money to travel all this way, just for a bit of silly soft stuff. Each area has its own vibe, its own feel, and its own character that sets its apart and leaves different memories. For the East, its somewhere to complement a city break or change up your week away at half term. Out West, big terrain means big commitment, calling for long stays but taking in maybe the best ski resort in the world. And the middle? This is road trip, ski bum territory, ticking off amazing resort after amazing resort as you wind your way deeper and deeper into the Rockies.
So if you want to begin your Canadian adventure, read on and enjoy my beginner's guide to unlocking Canadian skiing.
What to Expect
Why ski Canada?
What makes it so different from the Alps or your home mountains that you positively have to must ski it, at least one in your life? Surely mountains are mountains, snow is snow, wherever you go?
Not quite. Canada's mountains are different. At times they are old, some of the oldest mountains on earth, and as a result they are low and rounded, covered head to toe in trees, about as far from traditional Alpine skiing realms as you can imagine. Elsewhere, they are big. Really big. The Rockies rise out of the flatness of the Great Prairies like nothing you can imagine, stretching up and down and north and south for, quite literally miles.
This is big mountain skiing at its absolute truest and best, and, considering British Columbia itself is four times the size of Great Britain and covered in mountains, there is plenty to enjoy. As a result, this is the land of cat- and heli-skiing, venturing farther into the backcountry than you have ever been in your life. Remember those ski films you watched growing up? You know the ones, helicopters dropping famous skiers off in the middle of nowhere, then watching them ski the sheer face of a huge mountain? Don't just dream it, do it.
And what about for those with a less adventurous streak? Well fear not, dear Reader, as there is plenty to do between the piste markers, too. North American resorts tend to be focused on one mountain, rather than strung out across several valleys as you might find in the Alps. I've always found this means that there is a much greater focus on the skiing itself, rather than this nagging feeling that you are always aiming for somewhere - say a lift or restaurant - then skiing to your next landmark. Across the pond this doesn't really happen, with entire mountain faces served by a handful of lifts helping you really explore the territory you are in.
There are some drawbacks, however. Expensive lift tickets, a radical difference in the quality of on-mountain food - with most mountains offering a concentrated selection of cafeterias rather than a selection of mountain cafes and restaurants - and, if you time things poorly, long queues. Most of these can be overcome, however, leading to amazing experiences all round.
The final difference? The vibes. Après skiing here is as much about dancing on barrels or the bartop of your favourite joint as much as it is about grabbing a beer, sitting with the locals, and sharing stories, the remote towns supporting resorts representing a ruggedness and self-sufficiency which leads to a huge respect for the mountain, and the achievements of conquering it.
There is no surprise, therefore, that more Brits want to ski Canada than anywhere else, including Japan. If you are one of them, read on to unlock Canadian skiing.
East
There's only one place to consider when it comes to Canadian East Coast skiing: Tremblant.
Tremblant may not be huge by any standards, with a little over 100km of pistes spread across two main mountain faces, but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in character.
The two mountain faces are North Side and South Side. The latter is a friendly collection of blues, reds and greens to enjoy at your own pace, whilst the former is stacked with fast paced reds and blacks, plus more tree skiing than you can shake a stick at.
There are also two supplementary faces, Sunny Side (mostly a connection down to the casino) and The Edge, not the U2 guitarist but a collection of some of the gnarliest runs on the mountain.
Off the hill, there's plenty to see and do, headlined by Le P'tit Caribou which has been voted the best après ski bar in North America. Time your visit to coincide with major US holidays, and you'll find the place packed, spilling on to the bar - where dancing is not just permitted but actively encouraged!
Tremblant's biggest selling point is accessibility. It lies 80 miles north of Montreal, one of Canada's liveliest and best cities, a mashup of Quebecois francophone and English influences, with a big student population to keep things fresh and hip. From further afield, Ottawa, Canada's capital, is two hours away to the southwest, Quebec City - an ancient fortress city well worth a visit - four hours away to the northeast. Toronto is a bit more of a stretch, but can easily be done in a long weekend. Combining any of these with some time on the slopes is a perfect mashup for your holiday.
What is Tremblant, therefore? The best weekend skiing destination in the world? The best city-ski mashup in North America? Or simply the best skiing this side of the Mississippi river? Why not all of the above?
Part II
Part II of how to unlock Canadian Skiing is coming soon - check back later for more tips and tricks to exploring the West Coast (did someone say best coast?) and the indomitable Rockies and BC Interior.
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